Monday, July 27, 2009

So three Cambodian guys, a blonde chick and a zebra get into a cab...

Yesterday was an intense day of travel from Thailand to the Cambodian border, then on to APCA. Poi's aunt and uncle helped me book a ticket through a travel agency on a ten passenger bus and then a transfer to a cab to Phnom Penh for 1350 baht.
Poi's grandparents dropped me off at the Malaysia Hotel in Bangkok at 6:30am because the bus was scheduled to arrive at 7am. The bus showed up at 8am and we were on our way. It was cool to see some of the more rural areas in Thailand on the way. The scenery was very lush and green, and there were people out in the rice paddies working. It was very postcard-esque. And I got to listen to some good music on the way via the man from Mexico City's headphones who was sitting in front of me. He seemed to be waging a full fledge attack on his eardrums with his sound cranked all the way up.
We arrived at the Poipet border around 11:30. At the border we all got out and had lunch while we filled out paperwork to get us across the border. Some people from my bus still needed to get their visas, so they did that there too. I sat with a guy from Singapore named Jeremy who was going to meet up with his friends at Siem Riep, where Angkor Wat is. He is a business student at an IT school in Singapore, but is spending this semester abroad in Bangkok, so he is just traveling a bit before his classes start.
Around 12:30pm a man told everyone going to Siem Riep to start walking with a guide. It turned out I was the only one from our bus going to Phnom Penh, so I stayed put. A few minutes later our bus driver came up to me and motioned to me as if to ask why I was still sitting there. I pointed to myself and said "Phnom Penh." He motioned for me to get up, pointed at the group far ahead and said "follow follow!" So I got up, put on my 30lb backpack, strapped my day pack to my front over my other small side bag, and began pulling my 50lb bag full of stuff for the APCA kids with my smaller carry-on size bag strapped on top of it. He shook his head at me and led me to a van. I'm pretty sure he thought I was ridiculous for having so much stuff. A guy drove me passed the group that was already walking and continued on toward what I assumed was the border. Mind you I had no idea where we were going or how this whole border crossing situation worked. The driver stopped abruptly in the middle of complete chaos. There were street children, vendors, cabbies, and beggars all over. He took my stuff out of the van and pointed straight, but said "go left", and drove away. Nervous and with no other falangs in sight I got my bags back on and went straight, figuring that in this case actions speak louder than words.
I was immediately swarmed by about 15 street children offering to pull my stuff for me on small dollies they were dragging. Several men also came up to me offering their taxi and bus services. As I was walking, trying to politely tell the street children ‘no thank you’ while managing all of my bags, a man, who must think himself very clever, came up to me and acted like he was my driver and had been waiting for me. I showed him the receipt for my ticket, which he then proceeded to tell me was no good, and said I’d have to buy a new ticket to get to Phnom Penh. At this point I was a little freaked out and realized he was not with the company I'd bought the ticket from. I told him I didn’t want his help and walked away. Of course he followed me and kept hounding me while I was trying to figure out what the heck to do. About ten minutes later, just as I was calling Poi to ask her to call her aunt, the group showed up with our real guide. I had never felt so relieved.
From that point on our guide, Heng, led me every step of the way across the border. First we waited inside a building to have our passports checked and stamped, which is when you officially cross the border. Then there was an infirmary line outside where they scan your temperature and make you swear you don't have swine flu. Then we walked on about a quarter mile on a dirt road passed like five seedy looking casinos to another line where they check your passport again and you turn in your arrival card. While waiting in all those lines I talked with Jeremy and another girl from Japan named Makiko. She is a teacher in Japan, but has spent a ton of time traveling solo all over the world. This was her 4th trip into Cambodia, and this trip she was going back to an orphanage she has visited before in Siem Riep where she teaches the kids Japanese guitar and songs. She was a really confident and interesting person, and she made me feel much better about traveling alone.
After all of those lines another bus drove us to a waiting point where my group left me and I waited for a long time for a cab to Phnom Penh. Finally a car came, which Heng said was a cab, though it was unmarked. I got in and sat right next to a ladyboy. I don't think I mentioned this before, but ladyboys are what they call transsexuals in Thailand, and they were all over Bangkok. Apparently sex change operations are all the rage there. While I was traveling with Monica and Alisa we decided to code name them ‘zebras’ so we could more openly announce to each other when we spotted one.
On our way out of Poipet we picked up two other Cambodian men and then proceeded to Phnom Penh. So there I was, in the back middle seat of a small Toyota, squished between a ladyboy and a large Cambodian man for 5 hours.
It was absolutely the most terrifying car ride of my life. My eyes were wide and my body was tense the entire trip. Our driver seemed to feel that 70mph was an acceptable speed to go down a two lane road with motorcycles, tuk tuks, bicyclist, stray dogs, cows and buffalo, pigs and pedestrians on either side. Not to mention other cars, which he would pass on the left without slowing down by simply honking like a maniac and expecting everyone else to move over. There were a few instances where suicide pigs, cows and dogs darted unexpectedly into the road. Those were scary. But somehow the whole way there I didn’t see one dead animal and there were no accidents. It truly seemed miraculous.
Heng had helped me give the cab driver Sophea’s phone number, so he knew to drop me off in the Oudong province which is about an hour outside Phnom Penh on the way. Sophea is a staff member at APCA, and he and I have been in communication this week about my arrival because Mr. Dara, the director of the orphanage is in Korea for a conference for NGOs.
Sophea and Dara’s wife, Mrs. Sim, Hazel, another volunteer, and three girls, Sreypov, Nary and Mari were there to greet me. I can’t even explain how happy I was to see them after that car ride.
It was about a half an hour drive from the Oudong market where we met to APCA. When we got there all of the kids ran to the van yelling “Hello Jennifer!” “Nice to meet you Jennifer!” It was the most incredible welcoming I could have ever imagined. They all ran up to shake my hand and hug me, and I had to pull myself together quickly to keep from crying. I was so happy and overwhelmed after such a crazy and long day.
Before I knew it the kids had grabbed all of my bags and were carrying them into the building and up the three flights of stairs to my room. One small boy had my 50lb bag on his back and was carrying it on his own! It was unbelievable. They led me to my room, which is so beautiful; I was not expecting the accommodations here to be so wonderful. I have my own room with two fans, and my own bathroom. I will post pictures as soon as I can. It is really lovely and so much more than I was expecting. They already had dinner prepared for me, an egg, rice and veggies. I was so hungry, and Hazel sat with me and we talked while I ate. Hazel is from England. She has been here for the past 6 ½ weeks and leaves next week. She is volunteering here teaching English and doing research gathering with Dara and Sophea before she begins her university studies at Sussex in England. She is a really kind, smart girl and we have spent a lot of time talking since I arrived here. I’m impressed with how mature and worldly she is at just 19.
There is another volunteer here from Korea named Kim. He arrived last week and will be here three more weeks. He is a grad student at a school in Korea and is majoring in International Peace, which sounds flipping sweet! He is teaching the kids Korean and Tae Kwon Do, and meeting with other NGOs all over Cambodia to learn more about their work. Apparently they have had a steady Korean teacher at APCA for the past 5 months, but she just left, and after Kim leaves another Korean teacher will come for 5 more months.
I just realized I never explained what APCA is. It stands for Assisting Poor Children Agency. The orphanage here in Oudong has about 63 children. APCA also works with 14 villages in the surrounding area doing many projects. As I learn more about their work share it with you.
This blog is getting really long, but I still feel like I have so much more to tell you. I should probably learn to condense my thoughts a little bit better. But I am so excited to be here, and I am really happy that there are other volunteers here as well. I wasn’t expecting any, and it is a really pleasant surprise. I hear Kim yelling downstairs so I have a feeling Tae Kwon Do lessons are starting and I want to participate so I’m going to run. Sorry this was so long! I hope you are all doing well!

7 comments:

  1. So happy you made it there safely and are loving it. We here in the States can relax a bit now. :)

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  2. Jen, we were relieved to hear in your email that you had made it safely to APCA. Had we any idea what an ordeal it was....well, we might have worried more! After your crazy drive, I don't expect to hear comments about MY driving ever again! I love you so much and am missing you greatly, but am so happy for the loving welcome you have received at your temporary home. Mom

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  3. Hi Jen, uncle paul here -- just getting caught up on your adventures ... wow. You've already done/seen a ton in a short time! Enjoy your next phase...

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  4. Hi Jen, Grammy and I are very very happy that you are safe and well. Many prayers and novenas are being said. The children's excitement on your arrival had to make the trip worthwhile. Stay well and keep us posted. Much Love Grammy and Nick.;

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  5. Hi Sweetie. This is Aunt Kim (using UP's account). Whew! I feel such relief knowing you have made it to your destination. So happy that you got to tour a bit beforehand. You certainly are skilled at making the most of your time. I must tell you that your blog reads like a good novel. I look forward to your next posting. It is fun to be an armchair traveler. Thanks! many e-hugs to you! AK

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  6. This is Ken Sause, Gram Annie's friend. You are impressive in your ambassador role in making a world difference. I called ANnie to read the blog to her as she has no PC but left her a message. She will love this. Thanks to Dad (your top fan) for sending this to me. I cracked up at all that you endured and i is the makings of a great chic flic and I love the ladyboys thing. They exist all over the place in Asia Major and Minor. They are historical and date back to the Greeks and Romans.Alexander the Great kept a traveling flock of them. ANyway, enjoy the life and think of a State Department job when you decide it is time to get a job and pay Mom and Dad back, ha.

    Good health for sure!!! Come back to New Haven for pizza too. You can get tired of Asian cuisine too. :-) Ken

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